Maxitaxis are tall vans that accomodate upwards of 20 people... tall so that you can stand in the aisle (and fit more people.) There are multiple routes, and riders are basically sharing cabfare to go anywhere on the route. A rider is able to get on and off at any time along the route, and the cost is 3 lei ($0.25) to do so. The cost of 3 lei is unrelated to distance traveled (one block or thirty... 3 lei.)
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A maxitaxi at 4:00pm; not yet rush hour...
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Routes... The first thing you have to know: the route you need. If you are meeting someone at a specific address, do not be afraid to ask them which route you should take. But, if you are feeling exceptionally independent, and do not feel like bothering someone to design your route for you, here is a helpful link I found:
http://www.md4ever.com/maps/index.html
1. To the bottom right corner of the map, click on "find street"
2. Scroll through alphabetical street names, select your destination
3. The street will be highlighted in flashing red, and a list of the maxitaxi, bus and trolley routes will be displayed to the right of the map
4. Click on the number of any of the routes, and the route will be highlighted. Note the cross streets the route hits, as most routes will not run the entire length of the street you highlighted.
5. Find the route that comes closest to where you want to hop on and off... presto! You are ready to ride... almost.
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Route #162, as indicated in the lower-left corner of the windshield... the next van back follows Route #110.
Hail Yeah!...
I know, you're getting excited... you have your route ready, you know which corner you are going to stand near... now we hail the maxitaxi. First, please understand that there is more than one maxitaxi running each route. I have no idea how many, but you will only wait a few minutes between opportunities (actual time depends on route and time of day...) Also, the route numbers are not going to be in any sort of sequence: all vans are in a free-for-all on their route. With that in mind, keep an eye on the vans as they approach... you will not have much time to react (the drivers start, stop and drive with great fervor.) When you see your route number, make eye-contact with the driver and stick your hand out. To prevent confusion, and multiple vans stopping, hold your hand in the direction of the van you are hailing.
"What?! I did exactly what you told me, and that van just kept on truckin'!"
Welcome to rush hour... I have watched many people get passed up at 7:30 am because the van is already full. But don't fret. Often a packed van has "scrubbed the route" and the next van may be close to empty... which is why the drivers are so aggressive in jockeying for position. Know when the city is bustling, and give yourself extra time during those hours... business and school hours overlap in Chisinau, and there are a lot of students in this city.
But, when the van stops...
Get On and Get Ready...
As mentioned before, the van will come skidding to a stop. At this point the driver will be simultaneously pushing a button, or pulling a cord he has rigged, which opens the door. Hustle! Leap up the steps, with one hand on the door to close it behind you (if no one else is following of course...) If you are hustling, the driver will be more patient with his start-up... but don't think he is going to turn and look to see that you are ready to go. When it is time to go, there is only one speed... fast. So, plant your feet, grab onto the handrail and brace yourself for acceleration. Worry about paying the driver after you are acclimated to the motion. And keep in mind that acceleration may be followed by rapid stopping at any moment (next pick-up, drop-off, competing drivers, etc.) By the way, I like to have my fare ready in my pocket before boarding, such that I am not scrambling with my money clip, etc. while the van is moving.
The Stance
Riding a maxitaxi is much like surfing... except, it is probably more akin to surfing in a typhoon. Most sudden motions will occur in the front to back direction (starting and stopping.) So, imagine that the aisle is your surfboard. You are going to put your feet perpendicular to it's length, with your legs slightly spread in the parallel plane... your back leg will absorb pressure during acceleration and your front leg will brace against sudden stops. For the normal lane changes and swerves, your core muscles (abdomen and lower back) will do most of the steadying... but use your arm strength and the railing to brace yourself through more violent changes in direction.
Etiquette
1. Do not crowd the door. When you get on, move out of the view of the driver's side-view mirror... he needs it. And as people get off the van, move to fill the back. When you are nearing your stop, move to the front again.
2. Pass the money. A pretty interesting phenomenon is the passing of money. Riders will pass their fare from anywhere on the van, up to the driver, after getting themselves situated. The driver will then make change which gets passed back to the original passer. I am not sure yet as to how the driver knows who has paid or not, but I'm guessing the system involves a lot of honor.
3. Little old ladies... if you are sitting in the front row and a little old lady, or mother with an infant, boards the van, please stand up and give them your seat. Chivalry is not dead on public transport.
4. Armpits... do not worry about body odor. Although moldovan women wear perfume, the men are distinctly deoderant free. So when you raise your arm and have to put your armpit near someone's face, do not fret: you're pit is probably much less odorous than what they are used to. :^)
Well, you are now ready to ride. Good luck, and have fun exploring!
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