Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Chișinau Wine Festival mixed with a bit of "It's a small world after all;" Oct . 10, 2009

As you may or may not be aware, wine is a very central part of Moldovan life.  It is a challenge to find a home that does not have it's own collection of grapevines sprawling over its walls and gates.  As such, I have yet to visit a home where I am not offered a glass or two of their homemade vin.  Well, on the second Sunday of October this dark fruity beverage is the official toast of the town, as Chișinau hosts the country's annual Wine Festival.

Apparently, it is normally held in the city's central park, but this year it was hosted at the Moldexpo fairgrounds.  This is not really all that important; but I will say that the central park would have been perfect for the celebration (I think there was a conflict with another celebration this year...)  I can only imagine the wine being poured, drank and spilled under the shade of the trees just off Stefan Cel Mare, trolley buses running to and fro.  Yes a bit of envy, but that envy will definitely bring me back to Moldova in a (hopefully not too) distant October.
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As you can see, a giant inflatable vintner welcomes guests to the fair.  His thumbs-up next to a barrel of what I presume is his proudly crafted inflatable wine is just his friendly way of daring you to have a good time while in Moldova... and yes, people come from all over Europe for this festival.  Before arriving to the fair I talked with four Polish college students at the bus stop.  They had flown in for two days solely to celebrate Moldovan wine!
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Bine ați venit!  (Welcome!)

As I was walking through the gate, a strange thing happened.  I was minding my own business, immersing myself in culture, when a distinctly mid-western accent brought me out of my daze.  There is something uncanny about hearing English spoken in Moldova.  It's clarity grasps the center of my attention with an indescribable strength, for better or worse.  Throw in the familiarity of the mid-west, and I am hooked.

So I had to ask, "Where are you from?"  As it turns out, it was a group of Peace Corps volunteers.  They invited me over to meet their group and share some wine... which I gladly obliged.
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From this vantage point we chatted....
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...enjoyed the thrill of traditional dancing...
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...because what good festival doesn't include random lines of people dancing through the crowd?
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...and a concert or three?

I wanted to wander a bit, but, the guys wanted to introduce me to someone before I took to the streets.  They had found out I was from Michigan and lived in Grand Rapids for a spell and thought they should introduce me to someone in the corps...

The conversation went something like this:

Me:     "You're from Grand Rapids?  Rock on, small world huh?"
Her:    "Guess so..."
Me:     "You look so familiar...did you get out a lot in Grand Rapids?"
Her:    "I guess you could say so, I do feel like we've met..."
Me:     "Did you ever grab a drink or two at Bar Divani?"
Her:    "Oh my God!  You hired me!!!"

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Meet Cailin.  Yes it is a small world after all!  She is also from Grand Rapids...  and was the second to last person I hired before leaving Grand Rapids for New Orleans.  It is amazing how life works.  I remember that she had pretty much no experience with wine when she came in for her interview.  But I also remember her striking me as a world traveler... it seemed like that personality would be great for selling wine to other people seeking the adventure of the world in a glass.  Little did I know that it would also wind up bringing us to the same street in Chisinau!  A very cool moment in time.

And with that... cue the amusement park rides and sound the music!
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From the annals of Disney:

It's a world of laughter, A world of tears.
It's a world of hopes, And a world of fears.
There's so much that we share,
That it's time we're aware,
It's a small world after all.

It's a small world after all.
It's a small world after all.
It's a small world after all.
It's a small, small world.

There is just one moon, And one golden sun.
And a smile means, Friendship to every one.
Though the mountains divide,
And the oceans are wide,
It's a small world after all.

It's a small world after all.
It's a small world after all.
It's a small world after all.
It's a small, small world.

I couldn't have stated it any better.

Alright, I get it...

A timely e-mail from my IU suitemate has given me renewed inspiration to get this thing rolling again... here comes the thunder!  Oh, and thank-you Tom for helping me get back on my horse.  "Dilapidating".... hmph! :^)

Thursday, January 7, 2010

Orheiul Vechi; Oct. 4, 2009

You may remember that when I first met Dr. Cebotarenco, she mentioned I should join her for a Moldovan picnic.  Well, when I ran into her at the physiopneumology congress we revisited the idea, and two days later we were on our way!  This was also the first time I would meet Irina, Julia and their parents, as well as "the other Dr. Cebotarenco," Dr. Sergey Cebotarenco.

As I soon found out, this wasn't going to be just any picnic... it would be a full day excursion, complete with a trip to one of Moldova's most lovely national treasures.  Orheiul Vechi is a cave-monastery, carved into the face of a cliff which overhangs a loop of the Raut River.  It was dug by Orthodox monks in the 13th century and remained inhabited through to the 18th century.  The cliff is a massive finger of limestone, carved out of the valley by the river.  It's unique landscape caught the strategic eye of Stefan Cel Mare, who commissioned the construction of a fortress atop its crest in the 14th century.
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The church on the left, and chapel on the right are barely visible perched on top of the cliff.
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 The majesty of the surrounding cliffs becomes more apparent; the tower over the chapel is visible just to the right of the foilage in the foreground.
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A closer view...
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Harvest in the valley
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Julia and Irina!
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 A little cemetery of blue metal crosses along the pathway to the monastery.  It was overgrown with wild grass and flowers.
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A cross... people scoot around its base three times for good luck.
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A view of the church dedicated to the Ascension of St. Mary further up the path; but we were headed to the right to go down into the cave...
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Here's a better view of the church...
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Dr. Cebotarenco in the entrance to the cave-monastery.
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The door; and check out the wrought iron grape-leaf under the door-pull!  (below)
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A nun tending to the candles.  The bags on the right are filled with food brought by travelers for the monks.
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The resident monk and nun
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 "Chilii" - the tiny stone nooks that monks slept in for decades at a time with no bed.
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Julia and Irina in one of the nooks...

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I don't know which monk got the end-room, but the window view was fantastic!
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Outside the chapel was a terrace...
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The chapel's window
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Flowers spilling over the cliff's edge
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The girls, goofing around on top of the world.
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The Doctors Cebotarenco and Mr. and Mrs. Ivasiuc
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And that was Orheiul Vechi.  A beautiful canyon in the midst of Moldova's rolling farmlands.  Quite a sight, and well worth the trip!

Oh... the picnic, you say?  Well, after our cliff-side tour we made our way back out to the highway and found a nice little place in the woods...
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... where we enjoyed homemade clătite and plăcinte (kind of like crepes and hand-pies... the clătite were made with fresh cheese, and slightly sweet while one variety of the plăcinte was stuffed with pumpkin and the other was made with fresh cheese.  They were very, very good!)
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And, the appropriate Champagne fade out... hope you enjoyed the post!
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I've been holding out on you...

Well, December has come and gone.... but I still have some great photos to share from a few adventures in October.  I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas and New Years celebration.  Bailey and I just returned from a wonderful trip to Romania, where we celebrated Christmas and rang in the New Year with my Dad, Cristina and Mama Ica... in Mama Ica and Cristina's home town of Robești!  My Dad, Cristina, Bailey and I also made our way through the mountains to Brașov... more on all of that later (with pictures) when the blog has caught up to the speed of life.  :^)

La mulți ani!

Sunday, November 8, 2009

The National Congress of Physiopneumology of the Republic of Moldova; October 1-2, 2009


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Setting the scene...

Within my time studying at the Central Municipal TB Hospital in Chișinau, I was offered the opportunity to attend the National Congress of Physiopneumology.  The event was presided over by Dr. Iavorschi, the Director of the "Chiril Draganiuc" Physiopneumology Institute.  Other notable participants included: Dr. Vladislav Erohin, Director of Central Tuberculosis Institute of the Medical Academy of Sciences in Moscow;  Dr. Victor Punga, Chief of Department at Central Tuberculosis Institute of the Medical Academy of Sciences in Moscow; Dr. Traian Mihaescu, Chief of the Pneumology Clinical Hospital in Iași, Romania; Dr. Dmitri Sain, Coordinator of the Moldovan National Tuberculosis Control Program; Dr. Maria Cetulean, Director of the Central Municipal TB Hospital in Chișinau; and Dr. Aurelia Ustian, former Director of the "Chiril Draganiuc" Physiopneumology Institute and current head of the Physiopneumology Department at the Central Municipal TB Hospital.

Aside from these "big-hitters," numerous physicians and hospital directors/chiefs from across Moldova presented research and policy positions.  In addition, all of the residents and fellows currently training within the Chiril Draganiuc" Physiopneumology Institute presented their research findings.  It was a fairly in depth view of the research and concerns from across the Republic of Moldova, as well as a look at research from Germany, Romania, Russia and the Ukraine.  I am lucky enough to now be in possession of a book containing 147 research abstracts from around the region (already translated into English!)

Milling Around Before the Show Starts....
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Dr. Aurelia Ustian conversing with Dr. Traian Mihaescu of Romania.
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Dr. Ustian welcoming Dr. Vladislav Erohin of Russia.
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Dr. Cebotarenco from CoRSUM was a participant as well!
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On with the Show!
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Dr. Iavorschi making opening remarks.
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Dr. Ustian's Opening Remarks
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Dr. Maria Cetulean with a gift of flowers to commemorate the 50th Anniversary of the "Chiril Draganiuc" Physiopneumology Department.
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Dr. Cetulean presenting data regarding the epidemiology of TB in Chișinau between 1955 and 2008.
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Dr. Sabine Rusch-Gerdes of Germany made a presentation regarding diagnostic technologies.  She pointed out that there is one player who continually impeeds progress and gets between the other players, and that "we all need to get rid of."  I'll let you guess which person she highlighted with her laser-pen...

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This is Dr. Veaceslav Kulev; he was the physician who has instructed me one-on-one during my time at the TB Hospital.  Here he is presenting his data on the impact of migration on TB in Chișinau.
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Taking it all in... yes, this is just evidence of me paying close attention.  :^)
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Dr. Cetulean convinced me to get in for a picture with the "big hitters."  The minds at the center of both the Russian and Moldovan struggles against TB are present in this picture.
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Of course, no meeting is a success until its participants go home happy, healthy, and full of food.  This was one of the lunch tables on Thursday... as you can see in this photo, we all grab a plate and plasticware, then stand around the table and eat from the small-plates.  Very cool way to encourage conversation...
you truly "share a meal."

And so concludes my first experience at an international pulmonology conference.  As you can see, it was a very neat couple of days... at Thursday night's dinner I even did a traditional Moldovan circle-dance.  Sorry, wasn't able to snap a photo of myself... and sadly I didn't take a picture of the dinner tables either!  Let it be known that I am experiencing a disappointment-factor of  around 7 on a 10-point scale.  But I hope you enjoyed the pictorial nonetheless!

Until the next time...

Brushing up on Language Skills

I am currently in between the first two phases of my research project.  A week ago I finished my clinical studies of the epidemiology, diagnosis and treatment of tuberculosis (TB) at the Central Municipal TB Hospital in Chisinau.  This first phase comprised the first 6 weeks of my time in Moldova.  I am now moving into the policy phase of my research, working most closely with the Coalition for the Safe and Rational Use of Medicines (CoRSUM.)  There are a couple of policy issues I will work on with Dr. Cebotarenco of CoRSUM throughout the remainder of my time in Moldova (international clinical networking on behalf of migrants, and student volunteering/networking.)  As another major component of the policy phase, I have chosen to map the network of organizations available to clinicians and patients to aid in the diagnosis, treatment and follow-up of TB.  I am currently organizing meetings with major governmental and non-governmental organizations to begin the process.  This will also synergize with the efforts through CoRSUM to increase student community involvement, as it will undoubtedly identify organizations that might appreciate additional, skilled, human resources.

But, just as important, I am also currently focusing on the development of my language skills in order to prep for the third, and final, phase of my study (volunteer clinical rotations.)  I have given myself 2 weeks to really polish up... but right now, I need a break.  :^)

So, back to where I left off...

Friday, October 30, 2009

Tuesday, of the "4 weeks prior to this last Tuesday" Variety - Sep. 29, 2009

It was on that fateful Tuesday that I first traveled outside of Chisinau.  Dr. Kulev introduced me to a friend of his who happens to be a surgeon by day and a pharmaceutical representative by... well, other days.  A special note to readers:  I would like you to think "potential conflict of interest."  But, as a second thought, why would a surgeon need a "second" job?  (By the way, the pharmaceutical gig pays more than operating on people in Moldova... think "even bigger conflict of interest.")  But I digress.

So, there I was... presented with an opportunity to travel with a surgeon-drug-rep through the countryside of Moldova as he called on his physician colleague-clients.  And do you think that yours truly was up for such an adventure?  Right on.
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7:15 am, bright eyed and bushy tailed... Ready to ride shotgun in a Skoda!

On the way out of town we filled up with gas...
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 ...by which I mean: we pulled in and he filled up the tank.  Wow, it's not that long ago that we had full-service in America.  But long enough that I thought you might like a picture to remember it by.

And... now for your first view of the Moldovan countryside:
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Moldova has a lot of hills and farms.  Here you see a bit of morning haze...  I will try to capture the full beauty in photos from later adventures.  For now, just take my word for it being very beautiful

So... after stopping at a few small clinics in villages that straddled the main road, Jon (pronounced "e-yon" with a long "e" blended with the "y" followed by a long "o") pulled the Skoda onto a dirt road to lead us into a more secluded village.  It is hard to read, but this is the only village that I have a name for:  Todirești.
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Each village we visited had one of these crosses at its entrance.  I have forgotten what they are called... if any of you know, please let me know and I will add it to the post.
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Above:  A home in the village.  You can see that it is harvest season.
Below:  The clinic.
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 Above:  The clinic's water well.
Below:  A view out the physician's office window.  I do not know to whom the turkies and geese belong, but that is definitely the clinic's property.
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On the way out of the village we came across...
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...hitch hikers!  Apparently this is a very normal occurrence in Moldova.  We gave these two ladies a ride in to Ungheni (they waited patiently in the car while we stopped at two more clinics on the way...) and then they chipped in a few lei for gas.  Trust is still abundant in Moldova.
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Also on the way out of town (and with two patiently waiting hitch-hikers,) Jon decided to show me how to operate a water well.  This one, as it turns out had dried-up in the last couple of years.
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At this point I must apologize, I did not take enough photos of the adventures in Ungheni (which I sadly realized in looking back through the pictures.)  So, I will narrate for a bit...

Jon and I first stopped at the main polyclinic.  Polyclinics are giant out-patient centers.  This particular polyclinic was 6 stories tall.  On the way in, Jon stopped to chat with the front-office staff.  After trading some good natured jabs, he left the ladies with "what, this man comes all the way from America, and you don't offer him tea?!"  After visiting a few floors-worth of physicians we were headed out the door... and the girls offered me tea... and chocolate, and wafers.  So we set up shop, right there in the front office and enjoyed some tea.
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Next on the agenda was lunch.  We walked over to the town center and found a nice little cafe.  But first things first.  "Do you have a water closet?" ... "Oh, yes," replies the waitress "right outside around the corner is a public restroom."
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 A hole in the ground?  No...  Public?  Very much so.  I carry a pocket-pack of kleenex with me when I should be carrying clorox, a mop and rubber gloves... my camera's flash really brightened up the place though... no real way to capture the true filth and grime.
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After lunch we headed to the town's hospital, where a young physician named Elena had just received the good news that she had obtained her Canadian visa!  Such news is cause for celebration; and celebrate we did.  We sat down for more tea, chocolate, wafers (I think Moldovans may be within an arm's reach of tea, chocolate and wafers at all times) and... Moldovan brandy.  By the way, Elena was not on duty or call...  but Jon was, so I was left with Elena talking about Canada and drinking brandy by the tea-cup full while Jon finished his sales rounds.  After finishing one bottle and starting the next, Jon returned.

The three of us decided to tour the town, and stop for a beer or two to celebrate Elena's good news.


A few highlights from the tour of Ungheni:

Basilica
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Train
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Graffiti: "Slip Knot" (an American heavy-metal band)
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More graffiti...
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Mihai Eminescu, a fantastic poet!  (And then I read what they wrote about him... punks.)
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Some local kids, hanging out on the train after school.  "Say hello to America!"
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And that does it for my pictures... none of Elena... none of the three of us sharing stories and beer at the outdoor cafe... and only one from Jon's parents' house!  Jon's parents' house you ask?  Well during the course of our stay at the cafe, Jon's dad called and said that the new wine was ready... that, and Jon's mom was preparing a rabbit with wine, served in white sauce, which would blow away my previous "Iepure cu Vin in Sos Alb" experience.  Not one to argue, I accepted an invitation to dinner... and off we go!
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 Jon's mom, stepping back into the entryway.
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After driving over some very-much-country roads we arrive at Jon's childhood home.  I was much too excited (and buzzed) to notice that I was not taking pictures.  In fact, before going outside to see the farm animals I set my camera down... I know this because I remember seeing the ten tiny pink piglets and saying to Jon "don't let me forget to come back out and take pictures of the piglets after dinner."  I was also supposed to milk the cow, but somewhere in there we started drinking wine, eating amazing iepure cu vin in sos alb (let me repeat:  AMAZING) and of course, shooting țuica.  It took three shots of țuica before I waved off another; which Jon's dad was happy to delay... until he offered me the fourth shot (again) five minutes later.  Well, if I am anything, I am polite.  So I politely obliged him another shot of țuica, and the rest is history!

Lesson #3 from Brian's Guide to Living in Moldova:  do not drink țuica in multiples immediately prior to riding on Moldovan country roads... Although another piece of advice would be to consider brandy, beer, wine and țuica as being good for four days of fun instead of one.   :^)