Thursday, February 11, 2010

Excursion! Oct. 11, 2009

Moldovans have a fine tradition of venturing out into the countryside for a day of leisure.  I was lucky enough to be invited along by my friend Artiom.  Yes, you may remember him from last year's post titled "The odds..." or perhaps from the post chronicling my misadventures with Marina the friendly wedding tour guide...

Well regardless, meet Artiom!
-
-
As you can see by this picture, I was not joking when I mentioned being offered homemade wine everywhere I go.  It is 7:30 am, and although the Wine Festival is now a few hours behind me, the wine is still a few hours ahead of me.  But I'm not the only one being wrangled into a glass of grapes...
-
-
Nor was I the only one out late; Irina decided to join us after celebrating her friends' wedding...
-
 
-
So, after a quick bite to eat and glass of vin for the road, we come to our first stop.... an officially Moldovan farm!
-
-
-
... with goats...
-
-
and OSTRICHES!
-
-
Aside from being a bit peculiar, and looking at all comers as if THEY are the peculiar ones... these guys are voracious eaters.
-
-
-
Now THAT'S an egg!
-
-
Of course, never to be outdone...
-
-
And yes, that ostrich was coming over to see just what exactly I had in mind for her eggs...
-
-
But, one more shot... Artiom and his mom.
-
-
 ...and with a beautiful horse...
-
-
On with the tour.  This farm had golden hens...
-
-
...peacocks...
-
-
...and birds of all feathers...
-
 


 
-
-
If you were ever curious, this is what an angry pony looks like...
-
-
As in, I'm amazed we didn't end up with one less excursionist...
-
-
(No, really, don't let that picture fool you.  We are standing just outside of the reach of it's chain... and you can see that I am still ready to leap back should that chain fail.)
-
Piglets!
-
 
-


-
 The ever protective mother:  "What are you looking at?  Nothing to see here; move along, move along..."
-
 
-
-
American smiles.  :^)
-
 
-
 Now, a few shots of the landscape...
-

-

-
-

And with that... it's back on the bus!  On to Part II of the excursion....
-
-
To be continued...

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Chișinau Wine Festival mixed with a bit of "It's a small world after all;" Oct . 10, 2009

As you may or may not be aware, wine is a very central part of Moldovan life.  It is a challenge to find a home that does not have it's own collection of grapevines sprawling over its walls and gates.  As such, I have yet to visit a home where I am not offered a glass or two of their homemade vin.  Well, on the second Sunday of October this dark fruity beverage is the official toast of the town, as Chișinau hosts the country's annual Wine Festival.

Apparently, it is normally held in the city's central park, but this year it was hosted at the Moldexpo fairgrounds.  This is not really all that important; but I will say that the central park would have been perfect for the celebration (I think there was a conflict with another celebration this year...)  I can only imagine the wine being poured, drank and spilled under the shade of the trees just off Stefan Cel Mare, trolley buses running to and fro.  Yes a bit of envy, but that envy will definitely bring me back to Moldova in a (hopefully not too) distant October.
-
-
As you can see, a giant inflatable vintner welcomes guests to the fair.  His thumbs-up next to a barrel of what I presume is his proudly crafted inflatable wine is just his friendly way of daring you to have a good time while in Moldova... and yes, people come from all over Europe for this festival.  Before arriving to the fair I talked with four Polish college students at the bus stop.  They had flown in for two days solely to celebrate Moldovan wine!
-
 
-
Bine ați venit!  (Welcome!)

As I was walking through the gate, a strange thing happened.  I was minding my own business, immersing myself in culture, when a distinctly mid-western accent brought me out of my daze.  There is something uncanny about hearing English spoken in Moldova.  It's clarity grasps the center of my attention with an indescribable strength, for better or worse.  Throw in the familiarity of the mid-west, and I am hooked.

So I had to ask, "Where are you from?"  As it turns out, it was a group of Peace Corps volunteers.  They invited me over to meet their group and share some wine... which I gladly obliged.
-
-
From this vantage point we chatted....
-
-
...enjoyed the thrill of traditional dancing...
-
-
...because what good festival doesn't include random lines of people dancing through the crowd?
-








-
...and a concert or three?

I wanted to wander a bit, but, the guys wanted to introduce me to someone before I took to the streets.  They had found out I was from Michigan and lived in Grand Rapids for a spell and thought they should introduce me to someone in the corps...

The conversation went something like this:

Me:     "You're from Grand Rapids?  Rock on, small world huh?"
Her:    "Guess so..."
Me:     "You look so familiar...did you get out a lot in Grand Rapids?"
Her:    "I guess you could say so, I do feel like we've met..."
Me:     "Did you ever grab a drink or two at Bar Divani?"
Her:    "Oh my God!  You hired me!!!"

-
-
Meet Cailin.  Yes it is a small world after all!  She is also from Grand Rapids...  and was the second to last person I hired before leaving Grand Rapids for New Orleans.  It is amazing how life works.  I remember that she had pretty much no experience with wine when she came in for her interview.  But I also remember her striking me as a world traveler... it seemed like that personality would be great for selling wine to other people seeking the adventure of the world in a glass.  Little did I know that it would also wind up bringing us to the same street in Chisinau!  A very cool moment in time.

And with that... cue the amusement park rides and sound the music!
-
 -
From the annals of Disney:

It's a world of laughter, A world of tears.
It's a world of hopes, And a world of fears.
There's so much that we share,
That it's time we're aware,
It's a small world after all.

It's a small world after all.
It's a small world after all.
It's a small world after all.
It's a small, small world.

There is just one moon, And one golden sun.
And a smile means, Friendship to every one.
Though the mountains divide,
And the oceans are wide,
It's a small world after all.

It's a small world after all.
It's a small world after all.
It's a small world after all.
It's a small, small world.

I couldn't have stated it any better.

Alright, I get it...

A timely e-mail from my IU suitemate has given me renewed inspiration to get this thing rolling again... here comes the thunder!  Oh, and thank-you Tom for helping me get back on my horse.  "Dilapidating".... hmph! :^)

Thursday, January 7, 2010

Orheiul Vechi; Oct. 4, 2009

You may remember that when I first met Dr. Cebotarenco, she mentioned I should join her for a Moldovan picnic.  Well, when I ran into her at the physiopneumology congress we revisited the idea, and two days later we were on our way!  This was also the first time I would meet Irina, Julia and their parents, as well as "the other Dr. Cebotarenco," Dr. Sergey Cebotarenco.

As I soon found out, this wasn't going to be just any picnic... it would be a full day excursion, complete with a trip to one of Moldova's most lovely national treasures.  Orheiul Vechi is a cave-monastery, carved into the face of a cliff which overhangs a loop of the Raut River.  It was dug by Orthodox monks in the 13th century and remained inhabited through to the 18th century.  The cliff is a massive finger of limestone, carved out of the valley by the river.  It's unique landscape caught the strategic eye of Stefan Cel Mare, who commissioned the construction of a fortress atop its crest in the 14th century.
-

The church on the left, and chapel on the right are barely visible perched on top of the cliff.
-

-
 The majesty of the surrounding cliffs becomes more apparent; the tower over the chapel is visible just to the right of the foilage in the foreground.
-

A closer view...
-


Harvest in the valley
-

Julia and Irina!
-

 A little cemetery of blue metal crosses along the pathway to the monastery.  It was overgrown with wild grass and flowers.
-













A cross... people scoot around its base three times for good luck.
-


A view of the church dedicated to the Ascension of St. Mary further up the path; but we were headed to the right to go down into the cave...
-

-
Here's a better view of the church...
-

Dr. Cebotarenco in the entrance to the cave-monastery.
-

-
The door; and check out the wrought iron grape-leaf under the door-pull!  (below)
-

-

A nun tending to the candles.  The bags on the right are filled with food brought by travelers for the monks.
-

The resident monk and nun
-

-

 "Chilii" - the tiny stone nooks that monks slept in for decades at a time with no bed.
 -

Julia and Irina in one of the nooks...

-

I don't know which monk got the end-room, but the window view was fantastic!
-

Outside the chapel was a terrace...
-


The chapel's window
-



Flowers spilling over the cliff's edge
-

The girls, goofing around on top of the world.
-

The Doctors Cebotarenco and Mr. and Mrs. Ivasiuc
-

And that was Orheiul Vechi.  A beautiful canyon in the midst of Moldova's rolling farmlands.  Quite a sight, and well worth the trip!

Oh... the picnic, you say?  Well, after our cliff-side tour we made our way back out to the highway and found a nice little place in the woods...
-

... where we enjoyed homemade clătite and plăcinte (kind of like crepes and hand-pies... the clătite were made with fresh cheese, and slightly sweet while one variety of the plăcinte was stuffed with pumpkin and the other was made with fresh cheese.  They were very, very good!)
-

And, the appropriate Champagne fade out... hope you enjoyed the post!
-